My great-grandmother Emily, a sturdy, short woman of German farming stock, did not find her sense of humor until she turned 80. Instead of comedy, she spent most of her life extolling the virtues of hard work and education. This may explain why, a few years after surpassing her 100th birthday, she “fired” the security guard at her assisted living facility. All he did was stand around. “It’s okay, though,” she then said, acknowledging his personable demeanor. “You’re the bomb.”
If my born-in-the-1800s great-grandmother Emily could work an odd bit of 1990s lingo into conversation, so can I. This kale salad is the bomb.
Say what you will about kale —I thought for sure that interest in this brassicas variety would have peaked in 2013—but there is no denying that its sturdy leaves are made for hearty fall salads.
A few weeks ago, I interviewed Cortney Burns, the co-chef at Bar Tartine in San Francisco, for a freelance piece. We ended up dissecting the restaurant’s perennially popular kale salad, which frames mildly bitter leaves with sunflower tahini, yogurt, yogurt powder, and rye bread (For specifics, look up the recipe in the Bar Tartine cookbook.) The salad is one of the few dishes that rarely leaves the menu, but Cortney said it would be off in a second if she or co-chef Nick Balla were tired of it.
“Our guests love it, but we also like to eat the kale salad,” she said. So the kale salad trend—like the burrata trend and the pork belly trend before it—is likely here to stay.
And that’s a good thing. The idea for my bomb-worthy salad came from [click to continue…]