Caramelized Cauliflower

When cauliflower hits hot oil, it takes on a sweetness that is entirely at odds with its less-inspired boiled self. Instead of emitting a cabbage-like aroma, the cauliflower smells like popcorn. It tastes similarly addictive. It’s crispy. For me, cauliflower seared in a pan with plenty of olive oil has been nothing short of a revelation.

I first made caramelized cauliflower when working the vegetable station at Terra, Hiro Sone and Lissa Domani’s restaurant in St. Helena. For a few reoccurring main courses, we tossed florets in a bowl with the generous glut of oil and a pinch of salt. In two large sauté pans, we seared the florets until they began to brown, then transferred the pans into a convection oven. With the help of an occasional stir, the florets became evenly browned after about 15 minutes.

At home without a convection oven, I quickly learned that I needed to modify the process.

Without the help of convection, the cauliflower didn’t achieve the deep-brown color I was looking for until the florets were helplessly soft, easily falling apart when mixed with other vegetables. The conclusion: roasting cauliflower in the oven a few minutes too long is a surefire way to make cauliflower mush.

So I decided to spend more time searing the florets on the stove, using the oven just to soften the center of the vegetable and take it a hair past al dente. This strategy worked well, and I used this method for a few years. But I’ve since simplified the process. I slice the cauliflower into smaller florets (more surface area ensures quicker cooking). In batches, I caramelized them on the stove, forgoing the oven altogether.

Success hinges on heat and oil.

Not hot enough, and you have an oily mess. Too stingy with the oil, and you will amass a pile of charred and undercooked cauliflower. Without enough oil, you also sacrifice the delicious crispy bits that inevitably break away from the florets. It is essential that you eat these bits as soon as you encounter them. They are the best part.

I am content to serve caramelized cauliflower as a side dish. But I also like to make a light meal of it, which is easy enough to do with pasta. Taking some distant (meaning imprecise) cues from Sicily, I soak raisins and sliced shallots in a mixture of red-wine vinegar, water, and a few pinches of sugar as the florets cook. If I have a lemon, I add zest. When the cauliflower is done, I transfer it to a plate and return the sauté pan to the stove. In the oil remaining in the pan, I cook the shallots and raisins until shallots have crisped. Meanwhile, I boil the noodles—any variety will do.

To finish, I give the pasta a good mix with the cauliflower, shallots, and raisins, and, maybe, another glug of olive oil. I fry an egg over easy and slide it on top of the pasta, adding a few toasted walnuts or pinenuts for good measure. A grating of Parmesan, and dinner is served.

Roasted Cauliflower Pasta

Serves 4

1 head cauliflower
Kosher salt
1/8 cup olive oil (or so)
4 shallots, sliced
1/4 cup raisins, minced
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
Zest of 1 lemon
A couple of pinches sugar
Dried chili flakes
1/4 cup chopped parsley
12 ounces dried pasta
4 eggs
1/4 cup toasted walnuts or pinenuts
A block of Parmesan for grating

1. Remove the core of the cauliflower and separate the head into small florets, slicing the larger ones in half or in quarters so that the florets are uniform in size. Transfer the cauliflower to a large bowl and season with a couple of pinches salt and enough olive oil to generously coat the florets.

2. In a small bowl, mix together the shallots, raisins, vinegar, zest, sugar, and a pinch of dried chile flakes.

3. In a large sauté pan over high heat, crisp the cauliflower in batches (crowding the pan will prevent the cauliflower from browning) until the pieces are mottled with deep golden brown spots, about 7 minutes. To test for doneness, piece the center of a floret with a fork. If it yields easily, transfer the cauliflower to a plate and keep warm.

4. Strain the shallots and raisins from the vinegar, reserving the vinegar. In the same sauté pan, pour in the shallots and raisins and cook until the shallots begin to crisp. Add the parsley, stir in all of the cauliflower and drizzle the vinegar over the top. Season with more salt, if needed.

5. In a pot of boiling, salted water, cook the pasta according to directions on the package. Drain the pasta, return it to the pot, and stir in the cauliflower. Add the parsley and a drizzle of oil, if desired.

6. In a sauté pan over medium heat, warm a few tablespoons of oil. Fry the eggs according to your preference (for this pasta, I like them over easy). Spoon the pasta into bowls and slide the eggs on top. Finish with a sprinkling of nuts and a grating of Parmesan cheese.

Tagged as: Italian, recipes, underrated ingredients